by Deborah Walters

Search and rescue dogs work in various challenging environments and around all kinds of animals and all kinds of people, including those wearing uniforms, big helmets and hazmat gear.

There is also the potential for the sounds of gunfire (searching wilderness areas during hunting season), and sirens, heavy equipment, and power tools (in the aftermath of a disaster). Lots of sights and sounds, not to mention temptations (strewn food, plush toys, displaced kitty cats), that a search dog needs to work through.

That’s a lot to ask of a dog, but for a dog with the right drive and temperament those distractions fade into the background.

Finlay, focused on a toy

Here’s what I look for when assessing SAR candidates, adjusting the test and results I am happy with depending on whether testing a puppy or juvenile (<2 y/o).

STABLE NERVES. A dog that either ignores or investigates a loud noise or scary sight, but does not attack it.

  • TEST: When the dog is not paying attention, drop a stainless steel bowl or soda can containing a few pennies on a hard surface behind her.
  • TEST: When the dog is looking, open an umbrella toward her.

NON AGGRESSION toward all animals and people.

  • TEST: Both dogs on lead, walk a non-reactive dog 4’ away. The test subject should not lunge, growl, bark, snap or cower.
  • TEST: (puppy) Have non-threatening people approach and pet puppy.
  • TEST: (older) Tie the dog to a post, handler leaves and hides. Stranger approaches the dog, unties and returns her to the handler. Evaluate for aggression, not manners.

CONFIDENCE. A dog who is bold and doesn’t NEED a person for moral support, but wants to work as an independent thinker on a team.

  • TEST: I don’t use a specific test for this. I just watch to see if the dog likes to take the lead when walking with her handler (good, as long as she responds when the handler tells her to slow down), or (bad) is a Velcro dog or lags behind the handler.

GOOD PHYSICAL STRUCTURE. These dogs have to climb and crawl, run and jump for extended periods of time.

  • TEST: Common sense and vet check.

DRIVE: Some of the previously listed characteristics can be learned, but personally, I won’t waste my time on a dog that does not have natural toy or food drive.

PREY/TOY DRIVE. This doesn’t mean the desire to chase animals. It means the
desire to chase toys. An INTENSE desire to chase/possess a toy, and preferably to
play tug with a person.

  • TEST: Drag a dishtowel or floppy plush toy by the dog. Dog should chase and kill the toy.
  • TEST: Will the dog engage in a game of tug?
  • TEST: Throw an age-appropriate toy. The dog should enthusiastically chase and retrieve or chase and possess. Does the dog bark at you in frustration when you are withholding the toy? Bonus Points!!!

HUNT DRIVE. Will the dog hunt for a toy that she cannot see?

  • TEST: Throw the toy that the dog likes best into some underbrush or tall grass. Will the dog search for the toy for :60, :90, forever…?

A puppy is going to have a shorter attention span, and may not even search for a full minute. That’s ok. I just want to see a focused search. In an older dog, I want her to intently search for at least a minute.

FOOD DRIVE. Toy drive is preferred as the primary reward system for search dogs, but food drive can also be used primarily or supplementary to toys.

  • TEST: hold a piece of juicy, stinky, high value food in a closed fist. Will the Pup/dog insistently paw at or nuzzle your hand trying to get the food? Will she follow your hand if you move it around your body?

DESIRE TO ENGAGE. Finally, I want to know if the dog has the desire to engage
with people and/or will work for the toy/food reward.

  • TEST: (puppy) Run backwards away from the pup clapping your hands and calling. Will she chase after you?
  • TEST: (pup and older) Have a helper restrain the dog. You show the dog her favorite toy or let her smell her favorite food in your hand. Run away from the dog while flapping your arms, squealing, and teasing her (yes, you must look like an idiot for this test). Duck behind a tree about 50’ away (15’ for pups). Your helper should release the dog as soon as you go out of sight. Did the dog stay focused on you as you were running? Did she run to you without distraction? Please reward her with the toy or food when she gets to you!

If testing a litter, I use the Volhardt PAT to narrow down the SAR candidates, then test the boldest, most stable of the bunch for drive. If evaluating an older dog, take into account fear stages, and possibly test again in a month or two if the dog was lacking her normal confidence the first time.

A dog over 2 years old is not a likely candidate. Older dogs can certainly be trained, but after the 18 to 24 months of training it takes to be operational, an older dog won’t have a lot of work life left.